PLATTSBURGH -- Nearly equal in size and both built in 1871, two coastal schooners slowly passed each other in Maine's Penobscot Bay.

With sails set, the 68-foot Stephen Taber was pushed by a diesel-powered yawl boat. I was aboard the 64-foot schooner Lewis R. French and traveling by the same power.

Despite both being part of the same Maine Windjammer Association fleet, our captain, Garth Wells, sensed that revelry, or rivalry, was afoot as the Taber came on.

"I don't like this," he muttered.

Still, cameras came to hand from most of the 22-guest crew aboard the French. We were tourists after all.

FULL BROADSIDE

We waved to our fellow sailors aboard the Taber. Some waved back. We smiled and so did they.

Then, in a flash, and with smoke rolling from the galley, assailment tossed over the deck in the form of flying biscuits. A full broadside.

Vowing revenge for being beat in the biscuits, we admitted we'd been surprised in our serenity. But, such a mental state is nearly impossible to avoid on one of these cruises.

TRADITIONAL SAILING

Each of the windjammers, of which there are 14 in the association, offers traditional sailing aboard a piece of history. The Lewis R. French and Stephen Taber are just two of the ships that sport National Historical Landmark plaques.

Out of Camden and Rockport, Maine, the ships have cruises of various lengths and themes into the calm waters of Penobscot Bay. As on a typical cruise, one can expect meals and to be well cared for. But, while a cruise ship offers swimming pools, dance halls and timed destinations, the windjammers offer simplicity.

The captains and crew sell nostalgia, peace and quiet aboard their tall ships.

Sailing typically ends in the late afternoon at one of the bay's many islands. On our first day, Captain Garth pushed onward into a sunset sail. There was such color on the western horizon as clouds spread out thin layers of purple-grey amidst orange. On the opposite horizon, up came the full moon, pink as could be with nothing obstructing its beauty but for a single mound of island on the ocean.

He didn't have to go all that way, but he did. He didn't have to take us farther than 10 miles out of the bay and I would have been happy. He took us almost 105 miles round trip in four days.