A few months ago, I received many phone calls and office visits about grubs. People were concerned because skunks and crows were digging up their lawns, and there were large dead patches. I diligently sent out our grub fact sheet and urged people patiently wait until June or July before applying grub-control chemicals. I hope that people followed my advice and would like to remind everyone that now is the time to take action.

Season-long grub control contains the chemical imidicloprid and takes two to three weeks to become effective, so it needs to be applied before the new crop of grubs hatch out in August. The imidicloprid is taken up by the grass. When the grubs feed on the grass roots, they take in the imidicloprid.

Remember, my recommendations don't substitute for pesticide labeling. Please read the label before applying any pesticide and follow the directions exactly.

BEAT THE BEETLE

There are many different species of beetles that spend part of their lives in the ground as grubs, but all belong to the family often called scarabs or scarab beetles. Adult scarabs are stout-bodied beetles and often have bright-metallic coloration. All the adults have distinctive antennae that can be curled into a ball or fanned out like leaves to sense odors. The front legs of the adult beetles are broad and adapted for digging.

Many scarab beetles are scavengers that feed on dung, carrion or decaying plant materials, but some feed on flowers and leaves. Two of the scarab beetles that cause extensive damage to some of our plants are the Japanese beetle and the rose chafer beetle. The rose chafer emerges in mid June and is active for three weeks. During those three weeks, it feeds on a wide range of flowers and leaves, though it prefers roses and peonies. The Japanese beetles appear in early July and are active through August. These beetles also feed on many kinds of flowers, trees and shrubs but prefer roses, grapes, raspberries and linden trees.

Some measure of control can be achieved by hand-picking the beetles. Simply hold a jar of soapy water under the bug and tap the branch. The beetles tend to drop when disturbed. Wait a few hours before dumping the water to ensure that the beetles have drowned. I know this sounds tedious, but once you practice, you will see the effectiveness of hand-picking. For more information on grubs, rose chafers, and Japanese beetles visit our Web page: http://ecgardening.cce.cornell.edu and click on the "factsheets" link.

APPLICATIONS DUE

We are currently seeking volunteers for our Master Gardener Programs in Clinton and Essex Counties. If you are interested in teaching others about your favorite subject, gardening, contact the office to find out how you can apply. We will be conducting interviews during July, so applications need to be completed by the end of June. And don't forget, we only conduct the training every other year -- this is your last chance to become a master gardener until 2010.

And talking about last chances, it is also your last chance to register for our strawberry workshop. Come learn the basics of strawberry growing, and, whether you grow them yourself, pick from a u-pick stand or buy them at market, how to preserve strawberries so you can enjoy them year-round. Tips on freezing fresh berries and an easy method for homemade jam will be covered.

The workshop will be held on Wednesday from 7 to 8:30 p.m. at the Cornell Cooperative Extension office on Route 22 in Plattsburgh. The cost is $15, and class size is limited.

For more information about being a master gardener or to register for the strawberry workshop, call 561-7450 or e-mail: alb326@cornell.edu.

For unbiased, research-based information on your home, yard, and garden questions, call our office at the number below or e-mail your question to the address below.