Bagram Air Base looms in the distance, and the conversation changes to the next move, which is to register at the terminal for the next flight to Kandahar.

NO COMFORT

One hour on a C-130 allows a change in jurisdiction from the Bagram Air Base, which is the American Zone, to Kandahar Air Base in the south, which is under Canadian control. All of the national forces with troops in Afghanistan fall under the NATO command called the International Security Assistance Force.

As one might expect from the Canadians, there is a first-class hockey rink on base, as well as a genuine Tim Horton's Donut Shop. Quite like Montreal.

According to Maj. Kelly Frushour, the public affairs officer for the 24th U.S. Marine Expeditionary Unit, the Marines are on the front lines down in Helmand Province, which is actually administered by the British.

The Marine mission at the Garmser District Center in Helmand Province is pure and simple counter insurgency: to clear, to hold and to build.

"Our mission here will end soon," said Frushour, "and we'd like to leave with our projects completed so that the incoming combined force of Brits and Afghans will be able to have a fresh start when they assume command."

Chuck Holton, a producer for Christian Broadcasting Network who recently spent a week with the Marines in Helmand, said he had never seen troops living in such tough conditions.

"They don't even have tents. They're sleeping out in the open desert with nothing but bedrolls."